Power

Consumption figures, DC and USB-C options, and the Advanced Power Supply caveat for Router 3.

Last updated Aug 18, 2026View as Markdown

Overview

Power is where off-grid and vehicle installs go wrong, so the numbers matter. The figures below cover the whole kit, meaning dish, router, power supply and cables, and are based on AC input averages. Real draw varies with temperature, location and how hard you are using the link.

Consumption

Kit Average Idle
Standard 4 and Standard 4 X 75 to 100 W 20 W
Starlink Mini 20 to 40 W 15 W

The Mini accepts 12 to 48 V DC at 60 W. Starlink only guarantees performance with the supplied power supply and cable.

USB-C. You need a USB PD source rated at least 100 W (20 V, 5 A). A 65 W supply will not run it, whatever else it claims. The USB-C to barrel jack cable is sold in the Starlink shop; see Accessories.

Power over ethernet is not supported. Plugging a PoE cable into a Mini changes nothing; you still need the power cable.

Running at 12 V. This is where instability shows up. Shorten the cable, use thicker gauge wire, or feed it at a higher voltage. See Starlink Mini setup.

DC power for Standard 4 and Standard 4 X

Two options let you skip the inverter in an RV, car, boat or battery setup.

Standard DC-DC Power Supply. Sold in select markets only, so if it does not appear in the shop it is not available where you are. XT60 connectors on both sides, 12 AWG wire. Specification sheet.

Advanced Power Supply (APSU). Takes AC or DC input and makes it straightforward to put a third-party router in the setup. Also XT60.

The Advanced Power Supply caveat

The APSU powers the Standard 4 and Standard 4 X dish without modification, but it does not power the Router 3. You need a separate source for the router. Any of these work:

  • A Starlink cable to the router’s WAN port, which carries power. 15 m cables are sold in the shop.
  • The power supply that came with your Standard 4 or Standard 4 X kit.
  • A mesh router supply, if you bought the Router 3 standalone.